WORKING WITH POLYURETHANE RESIN
The castings in these kits are made from polyurethane, which is hand poured into molds and allowed to set. Even though great care is taken, some air bubbles may occur in the castings. These can easily be filled with putty, then sanded, before painting.
Using a hobby knife, trim any flash from castings, especially in the window and door openings and square up ends of walls if needed. Be careful to work slowly because polyurethane files and sands very easily. Thin sections of polyurethane can be easily broken, so be careful around window frames.
In the molding process a mold release must be used. If not removed, it might prevent your paint and glue from adhering properly. To remove the mold release, wash all parts in warm water with a little dish soap mixed in. Use an old toothbrush to get into the detail then rinse parts thoroughly with water and let dry.
Gluing polyurethane is a snap using medium thick cyanoacrylate "super glue". Pre-fit all joints before gluing. For the wall sections, use a squaring jig or machinist square for alignment. Put a drop at the top and one at the middle of the joint. Quickly join the two pieces making sure to get the alignment right the first time. "Super" glue and polyurethane are of the same "family" so THE GLUE WILL SET INSTANTLY. Once the joint is set correctly, run a bead of glue down the inside seam. Capillary action will complete the process.
You can paint polyurethane with any kind of paint, but you should use a compatible primer first.
I'm sure you'll enjoy how easy these kits go together.